Barliman Butterbrain

[Lalaith]

Aragorn's comment about fat landlords was made directly to Butterbur himself, in retort to an insulting remark Barliman had made about him (Strider). Butterbur respected Gandalf and was hostile to Aragorn, which might colour their respective opinions of the man...
Butterbur showed he was quite a plucky old cove at the end of the book, when he mistakes the returning travellers for ruffians and comes out wielding a club to give them what for. And he is fairly astute about their ability to sort out the trouble in the Shire:

you’ve
come back changed from your travels, and you look now like folk as can deal
with troubles out of hand. I don’t doubt you’ll soon set all to rights.